Ge Gsh22jfte Evaporator Fan Runs Continuously
jeff1
Appliance Tech - Moderator
- #2
Hi,
Temps inside are......?
Lights shut off when the door(s) are closed?
jeff.
Jake
Appliance Tech - Admin
- #5
Well, 50 degrees is too warm for the glass of water in the refrigerator section, you really need to get a refrigerator/freezer thermometer, and see what your temperatures are in both sides.
Is the milk and other stuff in the refrigerator section keeping cold? Normal refrigerator temperature should be 36-40 degrees. Normal freezer temp. should be 0-10 degrees. The fan running all the time may indicate a lack of cooling properly issue.
When the fan shut off today did the whole refrigerator shut off? No sound at all from the refrigerator?
Get the liquid or digital type thermometer like the one here I use: Taylor Digital Refrigerator and Freezer Thermometer
Also pull your refrigerator out from the wall, then unplug it and clean your condenser coil its #730 here: Sealed System & Mother Board parts for GE GSH25JFTABB - AppliancePartsPros.com
If thats all clogged up with lint/pet hair, it will make the refrigerator not cool properly either.
Jake
Jake
Appliance Tech - Admin
- #7
Ok, your freezer temp is fine.
Now you have an air damper that blows cold air from the freezer fan into your refrigerator section, Put your hand in front of the air damper and feel if your getting a good flow of cold air coming into your refrigerator section.
Here's the parts diagram of your refrigerator section: Fresh Food Section parts for GE GSH25JFTABB - AppliancePartsPros.com
#429 is the air damper cover, should be up on the top left side of your refrigerator section. #426 is the air damper itself. If your not feeling much cold air flowing through the air damper that may be the problem. The air damper could be not opening fully when it should be.
Jake
- #10
i removed back cover and not sure if it should be this frosted over maybe this reason no air flow?
having a problem uploading a pic.. the metal coil behind the freezer wall had lot of ice and frost on them that looks like that might be reason for no airflow??? any help on uploading pics?
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- #11
It sounds like you have a defrost issue. The frost on the back wall of the freezer section was the clue. If you remove the evaporator cover (freezer section back wall) you'll probably find the coils packed with frost. When the coils become packed with frost the evaporator fan can't pull the air across them and into the fresh food section. It's only moving the air from on top of the coils.
There are only three components that make up the defrost system in your refrigerator, the defrost heater, the defrost thermistor and the control board or "motherboard". The best and easiest way to check the defrost system is: Remove the evaporator cover (freezer section back wall) and check the defrost heater for continuity with an ohmmeter. Check the thermistor on top of the evaporator by placing it into a glass of crushed ice and just enough water to cover it. It should read 16.3K ohms @32*F. If both check OK you'll need to replace the motherboard.
To upload a picture, look on the tool bar above for the little picture next to the little film strip. Click on it then select from computer on the top and then select files on the bottom then navigate to your picture, select it then upload files.
Jake
Appliance Tech - Admin
- #12
Yes, Rick is correct.
You have 3 parts that control the auto defrost cycle, the motherboard, the evaporator thermistor, and the defrost heater.
So what we do is a process of elimination to determine the bad part. So you will want to unplug your refrigerator and test the defrost heater first, but don't defrost it yet before testing it because if the heater checks good then you will need to test the evaporator thermistor thats mounted on the top of your evaporator coil, and that needs to be covered in frost to test that.
So take the food and shelves out of the freezer and remove the back panel inside the freezer, and test the defrost heater first, take the wires off before testing. Watch the video below to test it, if that tests fine, then watch the video Shawn made to test your defrost thermistor. If both test fine, then your motherboard is the bad part.
Here's the evaporator thermistor for your model:
Thermistor WR55X10025 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com
Watch this video, Shawn explains how to test/replace the evaporator thermistor:
[video=youtube;7lxOqMjFtr4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7lxOqMjFtr4[/video]
Here's the defrost heater for your model:
Defrost Heater Assembly WR51X10055 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com
Here's the motherboard for your model:
Main Control Board WR55X10942 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com
[video=youtube;311BiD76iYg]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=311BiD76iYg[/video]
Jake
- #14
That's OK if you defrosted it. Check the defrost heater for continuity. The two most common parts to fail is the defrost heater or the motherboard. Jake gave you a link to both parts in post 13.
- #16
Jake also gave you a link to the thermistor in the same post. If the heater is faulty or shows open, that's all you need to replace. If the heater checks good and you don't want to check the thermistor (they don't fail very often) replace it along with the motherboard. They cost about $10. If you want to check it and need instructions, let us know.
- #18
Defrost heater should be around 20 ohms. That may be the short beep on continuity setting. Check it on the ohm scale, RX1
- #20
OK my friend, keep us posted.
Source: https://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/threads/ge-side-by-side-freezer-fan-constantly-runs-help.37768/
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